I really enjoyed visiting the Pitti Palace in part due to its largesse
and extensive art collection, but also due to the amazing fashion
collection! Not only was the collection fulled with antiquities, but it
was also filled with historical symbols of Italian fashion. One of the
first rooms we went into housed two dresses, severely contrasted, but
with similar styles of the robe a la francaise. The first was a dress
from 1775-1780 that was titled as "manifattura siciliana", that was a
much more historical version. The second was a dress by Gianfranco Ferre
from 1989 in Milan that was a modern day interpretation of the French
period styles that looked like something a haute couture, French
ballerina would wear. It was a classical black tank top (dress?) with a
cape-like, huge, feathered (taffeta) skirt that tied at the front. Both
featured the "French enlightenment rose," which was created just for
Marie Antoinette in the 15th century.
I particularly
enjoyed the pieces by Fortuny and Ferre. Fortuny really seemed to be
inspired by the fabulous Greek goddesses, as he titled two of the
featured dresses as "Peplos tea gown" from 1934, and "Delphos tea gown"
from 1911. They both were inspired by the idea of liberation of women's
bodies, which was shown in the weightless, gauzy looking fabric that was
used in both dresses. The Ferre dresses had such extravagant bustiers
and intricate decoration. Most of the items were evening dresses and
were extraordinarily structural - keeping with the architectural trend
he is so well known for. However, there was one dress he had that had
draped raffia on the bodice that I really did not like. It looked like
limp noodles.
I'm pretty sure this dress was in the collection. Either way it's a great example of draping that is consistent with following the lines of the body from the 1930s.
And these were also featured: one is a wedding dress from the mid to late 1900s and the other is a "day dress" from the early 1900s
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