Monday, October 22, 2012

Cut and Constuction article Summary: Article by Janet Arnold (sorry for the late post, i forgot we needed to post them online)


Cut and Construction
Doublet, trunk-hose, cloak and bonnet
Worn by Don Garzia de’ Medici
Presented by: Amalia Antonoplos

Article by: Janet Arnold

This article depicts the garments of Don Garzia in his grave at Capella dei Principi of San Lorenzo. His coffin was opened in 1857 and the cut and construction of his garments were scrutinized. Elenora of Toledo’s garments were also examined in this article

Doublet
·       Red satin decorated with gold thread
·       Fastened with buttons and worked in silk thread- buttons now missing
·       Traditionally lined with linen. Small fragments of linen remain
o   Waistband was linen. The panes would have been tightly gathered into leg bands
·       Sleeves were folds of satin
·       Ribbons were tied in the holes of the doublet. The bottom of the doublet shows traces of holes, but they are not punched all the way through.
o   Perhaps this is because Garzia grew quickly and needed extra length in the body

Cloak
·       Remnants of the cloak were noted from the collar of the sleeves
o   The cloak represents contemporary English style
·       Hanging sleeves were slit at the top to match the cloak and fastened with braided loops
o   Polish fashion

Bonnet
·       Dark brown velvet- silk lining
·       Crown of bonnet with 39 spaced dart tucks
o   Western Europe fashion. Seen in portraits with jewels or ostrich feathers

Elenora of Toledo Coffin Gown
·       Floor length gown- white satin, embroidered bust, hemmed skirt. This gown was worn under a zimarra
·       Underneath gown is crimson velvet, silk stockings
·       Hair in braids
·       Strips of crimson silk found were remnants of garters, but were later found to be used to tie a corpse together (hands and legs)
·       Back of the dress had lace with eyelet holes. Uneven lacing shows that she was dressed in a hurry for the burial
·       Gown remnants of French fashion rather than Florentine due to the side embroidering

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