Reading Summary: Marchande des Modes

Fashion and the Growing Importance of the Marchande des Modes in Mid-Eighteenth-Century France, Pamela A. Parmal: Summary

The Marchande des Modes were responsible for selling and applying ornamental trims to clothing.  The popularity of trims in the eighteenth century made quick personal changes to an otherwise standard piece of clothing possible.  General clothing styles took a long time to change but trims were constantly being reinvented.  Personalization was key because there was only one style of dress (robe a la fancaise) worn by the vast majority of women.  The robe consisted of an overdress, petticoat and stomacher.  The stomacher functioned to cover the corset worn underneath and had the most trim.  Over time, the trim extended down the skirt and included ornamentation such as bows and lace.   Trims became more and more elaborate, until there was a movement in the 1780s for simple trims on informal wear.  Marcande des Modes had an important role in society because they were responsible for embellishing clothing, and were thus responsible for clothing trends.  As the author states: “While the couturiere and tailor still constructed the garments, it was the Marchande who made them fashionable.” (77)  This career allowed women to work in fashion, though they typically had to work underneath their husbands.  The most famous Marchande was Rose Bertin, who serviced the Queen, and was therefore responsible for many French fashion trends of this time period.